SOLVED: 97 ford expedition 4x4 rear differential.door tag

Detail: 97 ford expedition 4x4.door tag has #9 on axle code is this a 3.55 ratio,also it has 10 bolts on rear differential cover and i was told they have a 12 bolt cover also what are the size of gears on the 10 bolt and the 12 bolt .hope you can help me as there is no tag on my defferential.Thank's
Detail Question SOLVED: 97 ford expedition 4x4 rear differential.door tag

Solution: There should be a tag on rear end to check rear end, there are 4 different seizes for that car. 16 is 3.73 ,17 is 3.31 ,19 3.55 pos track. and 19 3.55 limited slip. , Hi, a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two. Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck! , remove the 'locking bolt', once the pin is out the c-clips shoud fall out unless this is a floating axle in which the axles are attached at the hub. , more than like have a broken axle shaft, un hook the rear drive shaft and put it in 4wd if it wont move then you know you got a broken axle shaft or spider gears broke in the pumpkin , I think if you put a pry bar behind the knuckle and give it a quick bump it will just pop out it has a ring on the inside that holds it in. Just uses pressure to keep it in place I will look in a few but I am sure that is what to do. , does the whinning noise decrease or go away when u decelarate? this is the key to a proper diagnosis. if it does, then your problem eather ring & pinion gears or related bearings (these are all in the center part of the diff.) if it does not change,the problem is in the wheel bearings, or rough tread on the tires. the former is expensive(4 or 5 hundred), the latter is not so bad(a hundred or so). u could try raising it up & supporting it under axel housing, have a friend run it up to about 40mph as u listen with a hose or stethescope to pinpoint the noise , That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings

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