Detail: My car cranks but wont start it has a low compression and we were told that the engine is gone but the diagnostic shows the problem as the crank sensor, we have gone to different mechanics but no one can tell us the problem, do you have an idea what could be the problem? Please let me know
Solution: Usually if the ecu says crank code then its a faulty sensor, can be both crank and cam. as if the crank sensor goes it will not start. cam it will start but not run correctly. low compression would mean eather water in oil, water in cylinders, or blow back on compression. but with all or any of these the engine would still start but run badly. , Hi, a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two. Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck! , 210.065- is your model indicater and your e class is a 210 chassis and your V-6 engine a 112 engine designation. You have the v.i.n, # in l side of the dash near the windsheild and you whole engine number is on the block , Apollo, I would first pull all the plugs out and give a little squirt of something like seafoam or even just a bit of engine oil into each cylinder, you may have lost the seal between the rings and cylinder walls and this will help. You also need to confim for shure that you are not getting fuel before you worry about the pump. You can check this at the fuel rail, either by opening up the line, or in some cases you may even have a schrader vale(like a tire valve) on the line that you can press. I suspect that you do have fuel, but the injectors are not oppening due to the old fuel sitting in them for so long. These can be removed and taken to a shop that cleans injectors, and then reinstalled with new seals. And yes I do belive that there is a fuel pump relay in the fuse area, you need to do a search to find out wich one. These can be jumpered to activate, but untill you have done everything else i wouldn't worry about it. Oh, I asume that you have checked for spark? If not, you can pull a plug out and with the wire attached you can hold the base of the plug against the block, while wearing gloves, and see if you get a spark when some one cranks it over. Remember, you must have spark, compression and fuel at the right time in the proper ammount, and it will run. , Yes sir , you have a failing valve, soon it will snap in two....please have your head checked. You can do this yourself by placing a long-handed screwdriver , business end down to each cylinder while pressing your ear to the handle(while engine is running)...you will notice a definite difference when you hit which cylinder has the bad valve. Also makes sure the egr valve is clean and your exhaust recycle valve is not stuck.( located in the crossover pipe) , check your harness wire. Check if the wire coating is brittle then you have to change it. The original harness has a lifespan so what we did is to replace the wirings one by one with a japanese made wires that wont get brittle. More durable , Ok the knock is your flex discs on the drive shaft are bad along with the carrier bearing. Replace before you get stranded or it comes loose. Fuel distributor may need work if it is hard to start when warm, Replace OVP relay by battery also, its always an issue.